Step One
Each painting I create involves an extended research process. It starts onsite with photographs, sketches, and whatever else I can take with me about the subject matter. Luckily, my husband, Joseph Held, is a photographer and he helps me get a variety of perspectives. |
|
Step Two
Once the photos are taken, it is time to start getting my supports ready. I use Arches 140 lb cold press watercolor paper. I purchase the full sheets and tear them down to the size I want to make the painting.
Everyone handles their paper differently at this step. I find, for myself, it is easiest to tape the paper onto a sheet of gator board with 3M blue painters tape and then staple it. It keeps sharp edges around the painting and keeps the paper from warping while I am working.
|
 |
Step Three
Now on to the outline! After going through all of my photographs, manipulating and creating the compositions I want I lay down the outlines on my paper. I need to make sure I get a good representational outline on the paper before I dive in. I typically use any mechanical pencil that I can get my hands on. If the outline is to dark, I go over the outline with a mouldable eraser to lighten the pencil marks. |
|
 |
Step Four
Start Painting! I have a certain palette of colors that I love to use. A set for the backgrounds and different sets for the flowers I am painting. I only use Artist tube watercolors. You get the best color and luminosity from tube paints. I always start my washes on the main subject first. I work from light to dark. I layer and layer color on until I get the tones and values that I want on the subject matter. I use a glazing method, wet onto dry, to build my color layers. Some parts of the painting can take anywhere from 3 to 15 layers of paint. |
|
 |
I layer and layer color on until I get the tones and values that I want on the subject matter. I use a glazing method, wet onto dry, to build my color layers. Some parts of the painting can take anywhere from 3 to 15 layers of paint.
Watercolors aren't a very forgiving medium, but you can modify or "fix" some mistakes if you are using non-staining paints. I fix any mistakes by adding water to my brush and washing out or "digging out" certain areas. Then I go back over those areas layer by layer. That usually does the trick if I have any bleeds that I do not like.
|
|
 |
Step Five
After the subject I am painting is complete, I start working on my background. I use a wet into wet wash method to do my backgrounds. I usually have a set of 4 or 5 colors I use in this method. I worked hard to pick my background palette so the colors don't muddy when they touch. Once my first wash is done, I go back over the painting and create outlines and paint negatively to create nice knock out design elements in the painting. |
|
 |
Step Six
Tweaking. I try to evaluate the painting through each of my steps to add a little here or there. There is always some tweaking in the end. I usually add more layers to the background or the subject matter to make sure the piece as a whole works in harmony.
This work is titled "Paradise Punch." It is a piece I created for the Indianapolis Zoo Artist Paint Out. I love this event because I get to paint on-site with the subject matter and love hanging out answering questions of the people visiting the zoo.
|
|
